Hey Jambo Jambo (hello in Swahali)!
Greetings from Zanzibar, the exotic East African isle of spices, india,
arabia, africa, and a whole lot of filth mixed together!
This might be a longish installment since I haven't had access to
internet for a while (geez, you'd think some of the world's poorest
countries would have lightening fast WiFi everywhere!). So I think I
last updated y'all in Vic Falls, here's what's happened since....
VIC FALLS...
Bungee jumped from 111 m - awesome, freaky, but oddly calming during
the freefall - it wasn't as scary as I expected (riverboarding was more
terrifying). Proud to report that I pulled off a nice swan dive and
managed not to look down until I actaully jumped.
Loads of rainbows, but no pots of gold :( Getting poured on like a
downpour from the falls mist, breaking my digital camera in multiple
places (more on this later), experiencing my first helicopter ride
(awesome), watching Zinedine Zidane headbutt his way into world cup
history.....almost too much to describe, but perhaps best of all was
our high tea experience at the Vic Falls hotel - overlooking the gorge,
sipping in high style, then returning to our tents....
Traded in one travel group from another. Kinda sad to say goodbyes to
some of the previous folks we lost, but we're now traveling with a
better cook, in a better truck, with more space, and some super cool
people - a couple from Ireland (the guy works in the Guiness factory),
a couple from Munich, two Aussie girls, and six people holding over
from the previous group - good times, but we're getting used to a 6:30
am wake up, followed by a 10-12 nap, a few beers after dinner, and a 9
pm bedtime. Yep, that's weak, I know.
ZAMBIA...
we drove. a lot. But, it was nice to actually have access to ATMs
that dispensed money that the local people would take. And, I learned
how to fix a broken gear in my digital camera with a band aid (no
joke).
Zambia is much poorer that previous countries, endless numbers of
villages with mud huts, flat sandish land that's not the best for
farming, and just a general sense of desparation around. On the bright
side, the people were super friendly and during our 14 hour driving
days, we traveled like rock stars when so see kids sprinting from their
mud hut houses just to wave hello. This goes on all day, in EVERY
village. We spent one night in a village next to a primary school, the
kids were incredible, absolutely blown away by getting their pictures
taken and shown to them on a digital camera. Toured their village and
homes....sad, sad story.
Finally, after 5 hours to go 60 km on a pot hole ridden mud road we
reached South Luangwa National Park, the gem of Zambian national parks
(outside vic falls, of course). The park was cool, but despite
relentless attempts to spot leopards during a night game drive, we
still have yet to see one in the wild yet. We did, however, spot some
leopard kill carcass in a tree - that was solid. And, we did spot
three spotted hyenas that ran right in front of our open air safari
vehicle.....what else.....loads of elephants, hippos, baboons, vervet
monkies (males have a bright blue scrotum - sorry, that's a bit crude,
but impossible to ignore). But the real fun came at night on our first
day there....At 11 pm, awoken to the sounds of 2000 pound hippos
grunting 100 feet from our tent. At 1:30-2:30 am awoken to the sounds
of 10-15 elephants chomping on a bunch of trees all around our tents
(100 feet away, max - pretty freaky stuff, especially since we slept
with all four of our tent windows open that night!
MALAWI....
Drove. A lot. Down that same bumpy ass dirt road, for 14 hours, but
made it to Senga Bay, Malawi. This is one of the 10 poorest countries
in the world, but Zambia seemed poorer. The beach and lake is
incredible - huge, but you could still see the blue mountain of
Mozambique on the other side. Didn't want to test the disease infested
waters, so instead I just proceded to get hammered on the beach all
day, lose badly in ping pong, then redeem myself in darts later that
night, all while watching one of our travel mates from England get
absoltuly hammered to the point that he was making up insulting songs
on a bongo to the tune of "Wheels on the Bus Go Round and Round".
Entertaining....
The next few days were slower, loads of great beach time in a tropical
setting, but still not too many mosquitos (less than 12 bites thus
far!).
TANZANIA.....
Driving. A lot (catching a theme here). 5 am departures, two days in
a row. Just in time for 5 pm traffic jar in Dar Es Salaam - horns,
dirt, open sewers, garbage everywhere, a million people in the streets,
hot and humid.....in short, typical 3rd world fun! Anyway, may I never
wish it on my worst enemies to come to Dar Es Salaam, just nothing
worth doing or seeing there.
Zanzibar (island 1.5 - 3 hour ferry) from Dar Es Salaam. Had a
frustrating travel day getting here (no thanks to our company which
decided to take a mid day long ferry to save $10, that wrecked the
whole day rather than the shorter and earlier one. Oh, and I wouldn't
recommend putting down 10 beers, doing the limbo, sand headstands, and
getting woken up after 4 hours of sleep but the morning (4 am!!!) call
to prayer for muslims!!! Ugh, nuf of that). Anyway, the town here
(Zanzibar) is very unique - kinda like the narrow alley ways of a greek
island town, but filled with Arab influece, and islam. It's more run
down than I expected with tons of population, but still authentically
African in its feel (not too touristy). Did a tour of Zanzibar's
famous spices (got to see and tastes black pepper, cinnamon, lychees,
fresh pineapple (rediculous), lemongrass, coffee, custard apples,
coconuts, mangosteens, and a dozen other fruits and spices - pretty
cool. Zanzibar is also filled with ruins from the 16th century sultans
who dominated the trade of spices and slaves here. Toured a slave
holding cell yesterday, very very sad - learned a lot that should be
taught in our schools.
And now to today, just finished two dives off the coast - including my
first wreck dive. Good times, but the visiability, coral brightness,
and size of fish has been better in other dive sites - still very very
good diving though and always fun to float among some stingrays and
nemo! Off to sundowner drinks now and nightmares about finishing Kili
and getting eaten by Lions in the Serengeti!!!
Hope all is well. Glad to see the Cubs kicking ass. Thanks for all
your emails....
Signin' off for now,
Rob